“Surprise: To cause the feeling of wonder, astonishment, or amazement, at something unanticipated”
It’s a fact that I’ve never been great when it comes to surprises, I like to know everything about everything. I think it’s got something to do with my day job, I’m an Emergency Planner and have been for 12 years – I plan for when bad things happen and write contingency plans. In order to do that I need as much information as possible to make informed decisions regarding how best to respond. There used to be a time when someone told me they had a surprise for me it instinctively filled me with dread. Continue reading “Italy: The Biggest Surprise in Venice”
I have a great interest in the architecture of churches and cathedrals. I love them. I always like to visit as many as I can when exploring both in England and other countries around the world. When it was decided that Mr ESLT and I were to  visit Milan I couldn’t be happier because as a large city in one of the countries with the most churches in the world I knew I would have a number to choose from. Apart from Santa Maria Delle Grazie to see Da Vinci’s The Last Supper the Cathedral (Milano Duomo) was next on my list. After visiting the Duomo in Florence I was excited to see if or how this one differed.
Duomo di Milano – Milan Cathedral
It took six centuries to complete the Duomo and is built in a Gothic style. This to many may look quite imposing (and ugly?) including Oscar Wilde Oscar who visited Milan in the summer of 1875. He wrote the following in a letter to his mother: ‘The Cathedral is an awful failure. Outside the design is monstrous and inartistic. The overelaborated details stuck high up where no one can see them; everything is vile in it; it is, however, imposing and gigantic as a failure, through its great size and elaborate execution’. It is dedicated to St Mary of the Nativity (Santa Maria Nascente) and it is the seat of Cardinal Angelo Scola the current Archbishop of Milan.
One of the 5 doors along the front of Milano Duomo, Italy
It is also the largest church in Italy and the fifth largest in the world:-
I would never call myself an art buff, far from it in fact. I do however like art especially from the High Renaissance period. Michelangelo and Da Vinci especially strike a cord with me. I have been lucky enough to previously admire Michelangelo’s David in the Galleria dell’Accademia in Florence and the breathtaking Sistine Chapel ceiling within the Vatican, Vatican City. So when Mr ESLT booked us tickets to see The Last Supper in the Santa Maria delle Grazie church on a recent trip toMilan I was very excited.
Santa Maria Delle Grazie church, Milan
We walked to Santa Maria delle Grazie from our B&B (a 5 minutes walk from the Duomo) which took us approximately 30 minutes. There are, of course, many ways you can get here from Piazza del Duomo (Milan’s central square). You could jump on the metro (M1 line) and get off at the Conciliazione stop which is a 5 minute walk from the church all in all taking 13 minutes. Or jump on the number 16 tram from the Duomo which stops right outside Santa Maria delle Grazie and takes 11. However you decide how to get there please remember to book your tickets in advance as they may be sold out when you get there.
Panoramic of sign on the floor outside Santa Maria Delle Grazie, Milan
I’ll be honest with you, I am not a big fan of football (soccer) but the list of football grounds I have visited around Europe is continually growing. Mr ESLT is quite the football fan therefore we try to visit local stadiums wherever and whenever possible. So, on our recent visit to Milana visit to the San Siro Stadium was definitely on the cards. Not being a football fan I didn’t even know which team plays at this ground. With a roll of the eyes Mr ESLT informed me there are actually two teams that play at the San Siro – Inter Milan andAC Milan both big deals in Italian football.
Panoramic shot of the San Siro Stadium, Milan
The San Siro is 5km away from Piazza del Duomo (Milan’s main square) and very accessible. If you want to visit why not put on your comfortable shoes and walk (it’ll take around 1 hour), jump on the metro or, like we did, jump on the hop on hop off bus which drops you right in front of the ticket office. If you do take the hop on hop off bus don’t forget to get your entrance ticket from the driver as you get a €1 discount meaning you only pay €16 as opposed to €17 on the door.
Accommodation in Italy can be very expensive and I’m sure anyone who has ever visited will agree with that. Mr ESLT and I always try to find value for money accommodation wherever we visit. We are definitely not hostel type people and try, where possible to stay in the centre of the town or city we are visiting. Mr ESLT and I normally spend hours researching hotels/apartments/B&Bs when we have plans to visit somewhere. However, when we recently visited Milan it was for my birthday (yeah) therefore Mr ESLT took full responsibility for choosing, booking and paying for accommodation. Lucky me he picked the beautifully retro Guesthouse Ca’ Monteggia, Via Sant’ Antonio 9, Milan. Feel “at home” in a “Milanese Home”
Ca’ Monteggia Guest House, Milan
The location of this B&B in my opinion is fantastic. Located on a quiet residential side street a mere 5 minute walk to the Duomo (Milan Cathedral) and the main square in Milan and right next to the Università degli Studi university. We arrived by taxi from the central train station (which is a stunning piece of architecture itself) which cost €10. However, it also only a 5 minute walk from the Missori Metro Stop which is extremely handy for getting all over Milan and it’s suburbs. The entrance to the B&B is extremely unassuming so keep your eye out for the sign as you could walk straight past it. Stepping through the door is like stepping back in time…but in an awesome way. You enter a small seating area decorated with amazing pieces both retro and modern. This area also doubles up as the left luggage room which we utilised on our last day as we had a late flight. Check in was very smooth and we were shown to our room immediately which was situated on the first floor. There isn’t a lift so if you have mobility issues unfortunately, you may need to think twice about staying here.
Not so long ago I read a post about why you shouldn’t visit Capri. I have searched and searched and searched the net for it since to no avail. When I read it, it made me think ‘is my trip to Capri going to be rubbish?’ But me being me I have to experience something for myself and not, not do something because someone else didn’t enjoy it or didn’t get anything from it. Also, I think the guys who had written it had visited in the off season and struggled to find anything open. Capri had always appealed to me and the fact that I was staying in Sorrento a hop across the water a visit was never in doubt.
Pier in Sorrento, Italy
Capri had a reputation in the 1960’s of being the playground of the rich and famous. This was something I had to see for myself, an island only accessible by water (or helicopter I’m sure if you were/are rich enough) gets a tick in my book. Did you know that geological surveys and archaeological findings have confirmed that Capri actually used to be part of mainland Italy?
Marina Grande, Capri, Italy
We decided to do an organised tour booked via Acampora Travel at a cost of £65 per person which was led by the lovely and knowledgable guide Gulia. This included hotel pick up and drop off, ferry ride, transportation whilst on the island and running commentary from Gulia. If you want the freedom of doing the trip at your own pace getting there is pretty easy from Sorrento with ferries running regularly from Sorrento Marina at a cost of between €14 and €18 per person, depending on the time of day you travel. The fast ferries take around 30 minutes and if you get the opportunity I’d advise standing at the back as you get great views of Sorrento andMt Vesuviuswhich slowly disappear the closer you get to Capri. Allowing perfect photo opportunities providing you make the journey on a clear day.
Rock Formation of the coast of Capri, Italy
When I arrived in Capri the group was given the opportunity to join an optional boat tour around the island for €16 per person from the marina, Marina Grande. This in my option was well worth it. Gulia joined us and pointed out various buildings (including Gracie Field’s home) caves and the beautiful orange coral which has formed at the bottom of the cliffs. Guila pointed out the sculpture of Gennarino (The Statue of the Scugnizzo) sitting on the rocks, waving out across the water – don’t forget to shout ‘Ciao Gennarino’ as he is said to bring good luck to travellers . We also went through the rock, which over time due to erosion is now an arch where Mr ESLT and I enjoyed a smooch which, according to legend means our love will last forever! We pulled up to the entrance of the Blue Grotto (lagoon) where we could see people entering. To get in you have to lay flat in a small rowing boat as the opening in the rocks is tiny! Now firstly, I’m not great with tight spaces and secondly we were short on time so decided that this wasn’t for us. I imagine it’s beautiful in there but visiting just wasn’t our thing. The boat journey around the full island took 60 minutes.
Gennarino, Capri, Italy
Back on dry land we jumped on a minibus and headed up the narrow, bendy road to Anacapri which sits at the highest point of the island. Here Gulia took us to a look out point which gave us breathtaking views of the sea, harbour and town below. We were given a couple of hours free time in Anacapri for us to grab lunch and explore the tiny quiet streets of this lovely town. After a hearty meal of pizza and beer we wandered around admiring the intricate buildings until we stumbled across the Church of St Michele Arcangelo which boasts the most beautiful and colourful mosaic floor I have ever seen. You are not permitted to walk on it and must navigate your way around the room on the wooden planks that have been placed around the edges. You can also climb a narrow spiralled staircase which allows you a birdseye view of the floor. What a great find and for a $2 (per person) entry fee it was also a bargain. Anacapri also has cable cars which you can ride….again not our thing but the looked like fun especially if you have kids with you. Here you will find many shops. The majority of which are gift shops. I’ll be honest we fell into the trap and bought souvenirs for friends and family simply because Capri was written across it!
Gorgeous floor that you cannot walk on at San Michele church, Ana Capri, Italy
After a lovely couple of hours up there we jumped back on the minibus and headed down to the town of Capri. Here Gulia took us on a walking tour of the town. Flower garden for the queen and another look out point which again gave fantastic views out over the water Tyrrhenian Sea. We were again given a couple of hours free time to explore. Capri was a lot busier than Anacapri that’s day and I imagine is most days with the shops and cafes bustling with visitors to the island. Here the shops are very different to those of Anacapri. Here are the shops that I had expected of this island – the high end designer ones! They are all on one street – Via Camerelle and Gulia told us that this was the most dangerous street in Capri – for husband’s wallets!!! Needless to say we visited a few and even found in the Gucci shop a specially designed handbag that you can only by on the Isle of Capri. A couple of hours here maybe wasn’t enough but it was getting late and I had turned a fluorescent shade of red(!) so it was time to head back to the harbour and board our ferry back to the mainland.
Street in Capri, Italy
So in summary, I’m writing a post about why you should go to Capri. Personally, it was an extremely enjoyable day, maybe the 30 degree weather had something to do with it? I don’t know but I’m glad I took the day to visit and explore this unique island and would highly recommend it. I would also recommend wearing sunscreen in said 30 degree weather so you don’t end up looking like a boil in the bag lobster like I did! (Ouch).
Have you ever heard of Herculaneum? I’ll be honest I hadn’t until I had the opportunity to visit this overlooked town whilst visiting Southern Italy last month. I’m sure we all know the story of Mt Vesuviuserupting in 79AD and wiping out Pompeiiby covering it with ash and pumice. Well guess what? This affected Herculaneum too! Along with Pompeii, Herculaneum took the full force of the famous eruption, yet many have never heard of it! There is a strong indication that Herculaneum was originally a Greek town as it is believed that Herculaneum was named after the Greek hero Hercules, son of Zeus.
The rooftops of Herculaneum, Italy
Herculaneum (Ercolano), unlike Pompeii, was hit with pyroclastic flows therefore wooden objects were preserved here such as roofs and doors of buildings. Yes, Pompeii is very well preserved but I personally think Herculaneum is even more so. In fact it is so well preserved the mosaic floors look like they could have been laid yesterday. Another reason many say that Herculaneum is Pompeii’s prettier sister is the fact that it was a much wealthier town to begin with grand houses and buildings clad with coloured marble and decorated with beautifully bright and detailed frescos, some of which are still visible today.
Beautiful mosaic floor in Herculaneum, Italy
Herculaneum is located approximately 10km from Naples and 40km from Sorrento, where we were staying. If you are to drive yourself from either of these cities please note that they are both toll road routes. We booked our trip via Acampora Travel at a cost of (approximately) £30 per person which included pick up and drop off in a comfortable coach together with a detailed audio tour lead by a very knowledgeable guide. Entrance to the archeological site was not included in that price. You must ‘pay on the door’ as with most historic sites in the area at a cost of €10 per person. Don’t forget to pick up a guidebook and a map of the site especially if you are visiting without a tour guide as Herculaneum is easy to get lost in. We are testament to that and we DID have a tour guide(!)
Herculaneum, Italy
It is hard to pinpoint exactly when Herculaneum was ‘found’ however most research points to some point during the 18th Century when tunnels were discovered. But open-air excavation didn’t actually begin until the 1920’s under archaeologist Amedeo Maiuri. It had always been believed that the town had been evacuated before Mt Vesuvius in 79AD erupted however in the 1980’s over 50 skeletons were found near the town’s port. The excavation and investigation of the bones was funded via a grant from the National Geographic Society. Herculaneum, together with neighbouring towns, was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site under the official name ‘Archaeological Areas of Pompeii, Herculaneum, and Torre Annunziata’ in 1997.Â
Original wall in Herculaneum, Italy
There isn’t a time limit on how long you can spend on the excavated site which is open between 8.30am and 7.30pm in the Summer months (beginning of May until the end of October) and between 8.30am and 5.00pm in the Winter months (the rest of the year).  We had approximately 3 hours here on our guided tour which looking back possibly wasn’t long enough. Obviously, our guide didn’t take us to all the buildings that have been excavated successfully because if she had done that I don’t think a week wood have been long enough let alone a day. And there wasn’t much time allowed at the buildings she did take us to. More often than not Mr ESLT and I were playing catch up to the rest of the group as we were taking pictures. So, in my opinion – yes it’s nice to be accompanied by a guide as you are likely to find out more information than if you went it alone however by going it alone you can take your time – swings and roundabouts!
The ruins of Herculaneum, Italy
So would I recommend Herculaneum – yes! It is a beautifully preserved town with a bit more ‘glamour’ about it and quieter than Pompeii. However, if you only have time to visit one of the towns in the Bay of Naples that was wiped out by the eruption Mt Vesuvius  then my heart is saying Herculean for its beauty and my head is saying Pompeii for the well known history. And as with all open air sites in Italy, if visiting during the summer months don’t forget sunscreen, hat and a bottle of water.
EAT SLEEP LOVE TRAVEL 